The short answer
Two questions narrow it down: how close do you want the jacket to sit, and what are you primarily wearing it for?
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A relaxed fit like the Bomber works across more builds and layers more easily over other pieces. A close fit like the Biker or Aviator rewards a leaner build and reads as more deliberate. The Trucker sits between: structured but not tight, the most adaptable of the four for day-to-day wear.
If you're unsure where to start, the Bomber and the Trucker exit the house first.
None of these silhouettes were designed to look good. They were designed to work. The bomber kept pilots warm at altitude. The biker kept riders protected on the road. The trucker held up in the field. The aviator carried a specific set of requirements from the US military. Chevignon has worked with all four since 1979.
Four silhouettes,
four histories
Same leather, different purposes. The silhouette you choose tells you where the jacket came from.
01
Bomber
Built for flight deck. Worn for everything else.
The MA-1 and its ancestors were designed around one constraint: a pilot had to move in a tight cockpit while wearing full flight equipment underneath. That's why the body runs relaxed. That's why it crops at the hip instead of falling to the thigh. When you put on a cowhide bomber for the first time, it will feel stiff across the shoulders and back. That rigidity isn't a defect. Give it six weeks of daily wear and it loosens at the stress points, starting with the shoulders, then the elbows.
Silhouette
Relaxed
Collar
Ribbed band
Closure
Front zip
02
Trucker
Denim jacket architecture. Cowhide execution.
The trucker borrows everything from its denim counterpart: the pointed collar, the yoke seam across the upper back, the two chest pockets with button closures. Those proportions were worked out over decades of denim production before anyone pressed them into leather. In cowhide, the same structure holds differently. The material relaxes at the specific points where your body creates friction: the back of the collar, the underarms, the front where your arms cross. After a full season it starts to develop a surface patina at those spots that no treatment can replicate.
Silhouette
Semi-fitted
Collar
Pointed
Pockets
Two chest with button closure
03
Biker
The jacket that doesn't apologize for what it is.
The asymmetric zip puts the closure off-center to reduce bulk at your chest when you're hunched forward. The wide lapels fold up and snap closed against the wind. The hardware isn't decorative: those buckles at the collar and cuffs were functional before they became a look. A proper biker jacket in full-grain cowhide will weigh noticeably more than anything made from bonded leather or corrected grain. That weight is the point.
Silhouette
Close-fitted
Closure
Asymmetric zip
Hardware
Brass buckles at collar and cuffs
04
Aviator
Designed in 1931. Still in service.
The A-2 specification was issued by the US Army Air Corps in 1931 and remained standard issue through World War II. Shirt collar, two flap chest pockets, straight front zip, silhouette that allowed movement over uniform layers without snagging on equipment. The civilian versions made since have kept those proportions because altering them breaks the silhouette. Chevignon's aviator works from the same reference points. The shirt collar in a quality hide will feel stiff against your neck for the first few weeks. That's accurate to the original.
Silhouette
Close-fitted, cropped
Collar
Shirt collar
Reference
A-2 specification, 1931
What holds a Chevignon jacket together?
Hardware, stitching, and the decisions that separate a jacket you'll wear for two years from one you'll wear for twenty.
Brass and zinc hardware
Zippers that resist corrosion. Buckles that don't loosen after the first season.
Bar-tacked stress points
Reinforced stitching at every point where tension concentrates: collar, pocket openings, cuff edges.
Ribbed knit cuffs and hem
Seals the jacket against cold air without restricting movement at the wrists.
Full-length lining
Makes the jacket easy to pull on over any layer. Breathes better than synthetic alternatives.
Antique-Finish Zipper
A durable metal zipper with a vintage-inspired finish that complements the richness of the leather.
Hide selection
Cowhide for structure and durability. Lambskin for drape. Each hide behaves differently under tension.
How each silhouette pairs
The jacket determines the silhouette. Everything else adjusts to it.
THE BOMBER
A relaxed upper half needs a controlled lower half
FootwearLow-top sneakers
The bomber already has volume through the body. Slim denim keeps the proportion honest. A crew neck works better than a hooded layer, which adds bulk at the collar where the jacket already sits.
THE TRUCKER
Treat it like the denim jacket that inspired its design.
FootwearWork boots or white sneakers
The trucker's workwear proportions read as casual. It pairs naturally with what a denim jacket does, which is part of what makes it versatile. The slightly loose body accommodates a sweater underneath on colder days.
THE BIKER
The hardware earns the right to be the loudest thing in the outfit
Everything else in a biker look should recede. The jacket carries the visual weight. Dark jeans and a plain undershirt let the asymmetric zip and hardware do their job without competition.
THE AVIATOR
Structured collar calls for a structured outfit
TrousersSlim trousers or straight jeans
FootwearLow boots or leather sneakers
The shirt collar reads more formal than the biker or trucker. It pulls a look toward put-together without requiring tailoring underneath. Slim or straight trousers keep the proportion balanced.
Four silhouettes at a glance
| Jacket | Body | Best use | Feel on day one |
|---|---|---|---|
Bomber | Relaxed, cropped at hip | Layering, casual daily wear | Stiff across shoulders. Loosens in weeks. |
Trucker | Semi-fitted, structured | Casual daily wear, transitional seasons | Holds its structure. Softens at friction points. |
Biker | Close-fitted, asymmetric | Edge, moto-inspired looks | Heavy and close. Adjusts to your posture. |
Aviator | Close-fitted, cropped | Smart-casual, travel | Stiff collar. Breaks in at the neck first. |